Is there a summit capable of slowing down the ascent of “the man from Everest”? At the age of 53, Nepalese mountaineer Kami Rita has reached the summit of the highest mountain in the world (8,849m) for the 28th time in his life. By touching the summit of Everest for the second time in ten days, he broke his own world record a day after his compatriot Pasang Dawa equaled it.
Everest is not the only summit on the father of two’s list, who has also climbed Lhotse (8,516m), K2 (8,611m) and Cho Oyu (8,188m) eight times.
A mountain guide for more than 20 years, Kami Rita first climbed Everest in 1994, working for a commercial expedition, but his first experience with this Himalayan mountain dates back to 1992, when he worked with… a base camp cook.
First ascent aged 24
Since then, this seasoned climber has climbed Everest almost every year, the first time at age 24. In particular, he led the first rope team to open the access route to the summit. The rest of the time, he spends his time at the base camp playing cards or training young Sherpas.
The 50-year-old comes from a family of enthusiasts. After Everest was made accessible to climbers from the southern flank in 1950, providing new climbing opportunities, Kami Rita’s father was one of the first professional Sherpa guides to accompany international climbers. His brother Lakpa Rita, also a guide, has climbed Everest 17 times.
From the top of her impressive performances, Rita Sherpa remains a cautious climber, tirelessly reminding us that an ascent is not accomplished alone, but with the help of a team that makes the feat possible. For his last record, he was also present as a guide, accompanying a group of tourists.
The thankless role of Sherpas
Nepal welcomes hundreds of climbers each season, when the temperatures are milder and the winds generally weaker. This season, 478 permits have been issued to foreign mountaineers for the ascent of Everest, a record. But ten climbers, including four Nepalese, have died on the world’s highest mountain this year.
Already in 2018, Kami Rita, who has seen tourist arrivals increase and expeditions become commonplace, complained about the lack of recognition towards the Sherpas. “Our government hasn’t done much for us. We are famous all over the world. A lot of foreigners know us, but our government doesn’t care about us,” he lamented. Gulf Times.
The mountaineering industry in the Himalayas relies on the experience of Sherpas, usually from the valleys of Everest. They pay a heavy price to accompany hundreds of mountaineers each year. A third of the dead on Everest are Nepali climbers. Asked about the future of his children, Kami Rita wishes to keep them away from the profession of the summits: “I don’t want them to work on the mountain. They will have an interest in pursuing their careers in other fields after their studies,” he said in 2018.
